A short bodice, with tabs, appeared in the 1630’s and was worn throughout the middle of 17th century by the middle and lower classes, long after the fashionable Miss had gone on to other styles. Oct 19, 2014 - The Original Stays One of the earliest pair of stays in this country with known provenance is held at Pilgrim Hall in Plymouth, Massachusetts. 18th century stays - tutorial - part 2 Moving on with the stays . In 1662 a maid in the Finish town Viborg, had three pairs stolen from her and in Sweden in 1684, simple stays were part of a female servant’s salary. The boning channels are marked on the pattern pieces before they are stitched down. After drawing all the boning channels to the panels, pin the middle layer pieces on your exterior fabric. Stays almost disappeared and became incorporated into the bodice itself, which was now mounted onto a stiff whaleboned lining. Anyone who has been making 18th century costumes for a while, has probably also learned that bias tape isn't accurate either (I recommend getting Costume Close-Up by Linda Baumgarten for more information on this). A pair of bodies can be made of three or four layers of fabric. Jeff & Caroline's pages of 17th Century Stuff. Between 1684 and 1700 the records of Old Bailey lists stays as stolen property twenty-nine times. Yay, I'm exited! The lower classes could purchase their stays ready-made or second hand while the upper classes bought bespoke stays where the staymaker visited the customer’s homes to take measurements and fit the stays. Yellow silk covered stays, c 1670. As a result, stays were made for all classes. Stays are lined with fustian or linen and the edges are bound. Stays can be open in the front or in the back. Material is more rarely noted, one pair is made of stuff, usually a wool fabric and then made of silk. The Redthreaded 18th Century stays are based on historical research and extant examples from the 1700's. Stays are difficult to date and there a few guidelines on how they evolved. I bought t... Robe Volante, c. 1720. Next up is a wool underpetticoat for me, a civilian sack coat for David and some new trousers and a new hoop skirt since my old one has bit the dust. Aug 21, 2015 - Explore Charlsey Fawkes's board "1700s Stays", followed by 168 people on Pinterest. The bodice had a long narrow waist, large ruffs were still worn and so was the cumbersome farthingale. When the stays are finished, the are covered in the fabric of the gown and sleeves are attached. Its simplicity makes it most attractive for the beginner. For the lower classes stays were made from linen, wool or leather. May 16, 2017 - I have seen these in several Dutch paintings and there's also the surviving pair in the V & A musuem in London. They are boned with whalebones. The ‘pair of bodys’ were now known as ‘a pair of stays’ or ‘stays’ and followed the fashionable waistline but kept the long centre front stomacher as seen in contemporary portraits. From $ 350.00 1910's Underbust Titanic Corset -- Ready to Ship in Standard & Plus Sizing. This is how I made the pattern for my mock-up and final pair of stays. Stays (a stiff corset) were essential garments in the fashionable woman's wardrobe throughout the 17th century. Making stays were considered a man’s work, just as tailoring clothes was and even when women, in the last quarter of the century, got the right to sew clothes for their own sex, staymaking continued to be a man’s trade. Around 1620 fashion grew less formal, and the waist crept up above its natural place. Originally the stiffening served the purpose of … The Gallery of Costumes, Platt Hall. Some types of garments, like riding habits, needed stays as they were not boned. The stays were dated in 1993 by Janet Arnold to 1670. Stays emerge in fashion history in the late 16th century though the exact dates and evolution process are not known. They are long-waisted and the front deeps down in a peak. In 1662 a maid in the Finish town Viborg, had three pairs stolen from her and in Sweden in 1684, simple stays were part of a female servant’s salary. Janet Arnold dated it to the beginning of the 17th century. Birch Hardwood Busk for Stays and Corsets - Historical, 16th 17th and 18th Century, Regency and Romantic Period SilverHillHistorical. New Idea - 17th Century Stays. The ‘pair of bodys’ were now known as ‘a pair of stays’ or ‘stays’ and followed the fashionable waistline but kept the long centre front stomacher as seen in contemporary portraits. From shop SilverHillHistorical . Catherine of Aragon is blamed for bringing both to England.In order to keep the bodice straight and tight a heavy underbodice was now worn, called ‘pair of bodys’. late 17th - early 18th century, French. 16th and 17th centuries. From $ 290.00 Sold Out. By the second half of 17th century, stays were worn by all classes and even a working woman could own more than one pair. I have a little treat for you today, at least if you like embroidery. back, front. Henry III of France and Louise of Lorraine. FIT SAMPLE SALE 1860's Gored Corsets. From $ 380.00 1900's Edwardian S-Bend Corset -- Ready to Ship in Standard & Plus Sizing. - but the true, historical purpose for a pair of bodies in the 16th Century or Stays in the the 17th and 18th century, were to smooth out the torso, flatten and lift the breasts; but not to make your waist or torso appear smaller! The Effigy stays are made of double layers of twill fustian and are bound with green leather. At a time where a prominent bust was desired, corsets helped to accentuate the bust and put more emphasis on the décolletage. They are dated to 16 and are made of linen twill, or possibly fustian. However having established to my own satisfaction that stiffened bodices were worn, I then had to choose whether to heavily bone all of my bodices or make a pair of stays and only lightly bone any bodices to go over them. Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, was known for tight-lacing her … Stays had become an essential garment for women of all stations in life even if material and rigidity changed after the user’s need. Italy is usually credited with the invention of the ‘busc’, the first artificial support to the upper body, whilst from Spain came the farthingale, which pushed the skirt into a conical shape. They are executed with theatrical construction techniques and steel boning to bring you the silhouette and details of the Georgian era in a sturdy, comfortable garment. The stays are worn and patched and have evidently been in heavy use. I began venturing in the the 1870s with my Ravenclaw bustle dress , I dipped a toe in 1890 with my Adora Belle Dearheart costume , and now I’m diving headfirst into the 18th century. If you want to reproduce this for commercial gain please contact us and I’m sure we can arrive at a mutually agreeable deal. I again checked for fit and made up the wool and cotton bodice and put the interlining in between the two layers before it was completed. This type of corset was a tight, elongated bodice that was worn underneath the clothing. The laces have metal tags at the ends to keep from fraying. By the second half of 17th century, stays were worn by all classes and even a working woman could own more than one pair. Its shoulder straps run below the shoulder line, allowing for … They are front-laced and made from three pattern pieces, bound with leather. These stays are the foundation for the fashionable silhouette of the 1630s-1660s. From shop erinscreativedesigns. By the start of the 15th century this was changing, waists became high and small – an extra band of stiff material may have helped create this shape. The pattern given is of a half-boned pair of stays of the 1760s/1770s. I was oft... Construction: I will base my robe de cour on the ones extant in Stockholm, but though they are similar in construction, they are not identic... 17th century stays is a rather neglected subject  in fashion history and little have been written about it. Boning channels sewn in pale blue silk thread. The boning channels are stitched with linen thread and it is laced in the front with twenty-nine pairs of lacing holes. . It’s made of fustian in cotton/linen and boned with whalebone. You should not be so tightly laced up that you can't breathe or are in pain! A short bodice, with tabs, appeared in the 1630’s and was worn throughout the middle of 17th century by the middle and lower classes, long after the fashionable Miss had gone on to other styles. Stays, was the term used for the fully boned laces bodices worn under clothes from the late 16th or early 17th century, until the end of the 18th century. The original stays would have had metal rings to reinforce the eyelet holes which I had to do without as I could not find any of the right size. The busk is remarkably comfortable and does stay in place. Some sort of stiffening of a woman's gown had been part of dress construction since the early 16th century. As a result, stays were made for all classes. Similar boned bodices were also worn on the Continent. In the beginning of the 17th century stay were made by the tailor, but gradually staymaking became a trade in its own right, in France, for example, that happened in 1660. Photo by Annika Windahl Pontén. The 1640’s waist began to descend again, the bodice still mounted onto the heavily whaleboned, stay-like foundation. Interesting and related topics like staymaking as a trade, critique against stay wearing and how stays were worn by different social classes will only lightly be touched upon. Cut from four pattern pieces, but the seam at the center back is straight and may be a result from an effort to save fabric, not because it is necessary to have a seam there. The stomacher has a pocket for the busk, a flat piece of wood, horn, whalebone, metal or ivory that help to push the breasts up and the tummy down. I'm all out of spiral steel boning and I still have to wait some time before I can order more. Even if the boned bodice seems to have been extremely popular, ordinary stays were still worn. There are also very few remaining examples of stays and boned bodices and even fewer of those have been properly analyzed. 18th century stays, front lacing stays, georgian corset, reenactment, colonial corset stays, custom made your choice of fabric erinscreativedesigns. Stays could also be used for medical purposes, especially for children, both girls and boys, were laced into stays to ensure that they grew straight. Whalebones could be used in less expensive stays, but they could also be stiffened with reed, cane or pack-thread (hemp-cord). The oldest is known as the. That means that stays were quite expensive, in modern pricing they would range between £8-160. Gabriel Metsu, Woman Playing Viola de gamba, 1663, A few pictures from the 18th century erotic calendar, 17th century embroidery at the Royal Armoury in Sweden, How to make a robe de cour in six weeks and hopefully not go crazy, part 2, 17th century stays and boned bodices, part 2, 17th century stays and boned bodices, part 1, The Duchess of Devonshire's Gossip Guide to the 18th Century, Female Academics in the Eighteenth Century, Stay-ing Alive: Historical Dress Adventures and Ramblings, 1880s Fundy Undies - Petticoat and Corset Cover, Regency ball in Stockholm, my newest gown and the pictures that were taken, Danskurser på Mäster Olofs Gården och Kristinehov. The busk was often richly decorated. These I made, lined in cotton and covered in mustard coloured wool. Iron corset from the late 16th century. Pattern: I want to make stays again, but this time it will be the 1650-1660 bodice with sleeves. As I did not know whether I would be able to wear the stays with the busk I made a pocket of fabric into which it could be inserted and stitched this to the boned interlining. These stays were at auction on Ebay. I am not mentioning kirtles either. The boned bodice remained for formal wear,but the mantua kept its popularity throughout the rest of the century. I see this year after year! Whalebone is cut to size and inserted.The bottom of the stays have skirts, tabs. This article will take a brief look at the history of stays and discuss a few extant garments to see if any conclusions can be drawn on how they were constructed. There were also a growing trade of ready-made stays for the lower classes who did not rely on the boned bodice in the same way. The 17th century was the century that lasted from January 1, 1601, to December 31, 1700.The term is often used to refer to the 1600s, the century between January 1, 1600 and December 31, 1699. Fortunately, I don't need steel boning to make stays! They have five skirts and the front goes down into a shallow peak. At the same time the boned bodice became popular, they were essentially stays covered in fabric and with sleeves permanently sewn in, making them both stays and bodice at the same time. The center front is shallower and more rounded than on the Effigy stays. As of now only three pairs of stays known to still exist that can be dated between 1600-1650. They were found on the effigy of Elizabeth I and was probably made for her funeral in 1603 by her tailor John Colt. The focus will be on the upper classes and examples in text relate to Northern Europe in general even if the extant garments described are mostly from Great Britain. Jan 3, 2019 - Explore Beata Popiołek's board "17th century Corsets,bodice and stays", followed by 498 people on Pinterest. It’s edged with leather strips that were apple green when new. I made the stays a few years ago and am still happy with their authenticity and their fit. In 1688, The Academy of Armory and Blazon (Book III) describes the construction of stays with great detail. Corsets in the 17th century were mostly made from linen and bones, with reeds, bents or whalebones. I currently have a shift, bodice and skirt, the shift and bodice being too small by about three sizes, only the skirt fitting, but it had popped it’s poppers once too often. Just makes sense to me - stylish bodice with pretty bows or without sleeves a functional pair of stays to wear under other bodices to give you a fashionable shape. Now, since the stays are done I really need to get out of the 18th century for a little while and focus on sewing for our upcoming Civil War reenactment season.What's more - I'm even in the mood for a little mid-19th century sewing. If you already haven't, take a look at extant 18th century stays and you will notice that the bindings on them are quite narrow and that is for a reason. The most obvious one being to shape the body into a fashionable shape, a foundation to which the clothes were fitted. They are made of seven pattern pieces, the back, the side parts and the fore parts and the shoulder straps. Six skirts with two unboned gores inserted between the skirts at the front. In the 17th century stays could also be called a pair of bodies, a straight pair of bodies or a pair of stays, but for ease I use stays throughout the text. Through family history the stays have been attributed to Mary Chilton Winslow, a Mayflower passenger. Historic Knitting and making the Gunnister purse, Sewing Tips and Techniques for 17th Century Costume, Working class costume of 17th century women. 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